My refractory attack to overfill my garden with more plant on a shoestring budget continues throughout the rest of gloaming . Or at least for as long as the conditions allows it .

One of the chore I achieve this hebdomad was to lift , divide and transfer my black - eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia ) .

But how is that stinting if I already have the plant ? Well , it took me about fifteen minutes to grow one plant into two . Three industrial plant , really , because I give away a bonus baby rudbeckia that I ’ll tell you about after .

Divide rudbeckia Black-eyed Susan

If you ’re also think of divide your black - eyed Susan , take on . I ’ll share a few of my tips and the logical thinking behind some of the choices I made while I was transplanting this belle .

What’s the best time to divide black-eyed Susan?

you may divide grim - eyed Susan either in the fall or in the spring when the plant is inscribe or exiting quiescency . You should n’t divide it in the summer when the plant is actively grow , nor in the winter when the plant is already dormant . In world-wide , rudbeckia should be divided every three or four years .

Even though my rudbeckia had only been in this post for less than two age , I decided to vacate , part and graft it to two other beds in my G . Initially , I wanted this sunk layer to be spring bulbs and summertime perennials , with a few perennial herbs such as intrepid sage and savory thrown in for right criterion .

But this summertime , I vomit in some leftover tomato plant in this bed and they grew like weeds . They did much better here than in any other place in my garden .

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This sealed the muckle for next year , so I decided to give this bed to tomato plant and other pollinator - well-disposed annual plants . ( The bounce bulbs will be staying since they do n’t overlap with tomato time of year . And the herbaceous plant are also continue because they raise low to the land ) .

Should I prune black-eyed Susan before dividing it?

Pruning perennial before dividing them defecate it easier to operate them ; it ’s also particularly helpful when you ’re dealing with tall , shaggy-haired flora . Once found in their raw location , the leafage of an unpruned plant will also search floppy , so esthetics is also a circumstance of whether you should cut or not .

I opt to try out with both pruning and not rationalise my genus Rudbeckia . So I will one of my divisions entire because the semen chief add grain and height to the garden in the winter ; they also draw birds that like to feed on the semen . I cut the other industrial plant because I want to harvest the seeds . I ’m plan on trying to grow rudbeckia from seeds next give .

I had been cut rudbeckia blooms all throughout the summertime to create corsage for indoor arrangement , so there were n’t that many seedheads leave . This dull and steady deadheading encouraged the works to stay in full bloom for more than two months .

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How do I divide black-eyed Susan?

I wish to suppose of separate black - eyed Susan ( and by extension , most perennial base divisions ) as a four - step summons : prep , heave , water parting , replant .

Step 1: Prep the new planting site first.

If you ’re planning on replant your rudbeckia ( or parts of it ) in another spot in your garden , start by prepping this new site first . Trust me , it ’s easier this way . Later , you ’ll have your hands full , quite literally .

So dig the hole ( you ’ll desire to lay to rest your black - eyed Susan at the same deepness ) and amend it with fresh compost . Rudbeckia can support drouth , but it does not do well in soggy soil . So ensure the new locating is draining well . This perennial is not an belligerent spreader , so do n’t be afraid to tuck it in faithful to other plant .

Step 2: Lift the black-eyed Susan.

Whether your land is rock solid or just Lucius DuBignon Clay - heavy , you’re able to give your genus Rudbeckia a good watering beforehand to make it easier to shift . My garden was already quite soused from the pelting , so I did n’t pre - pawn the roots .

Black - eyed Susan has a clumping theme anatomical structure – it does n’t go very deep , but it does stay very compact . The easiest way to lift it is by dig a deep around the drip short letter of the flora ( the notional circle right below the knocked out edge of the foliage ) . This method will give you practiced leverage for lifting and will ensure that you get the entire root structure in one go .

Once you ’ve dug around the root , hold on to the stem with one hand and use a spade to lift from below with your other hand . I was capable to do this with a hand shovel , but if your rudbeckia is larger , you might necessitate a full - sized shovel to get the job done .

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When I lifted the large disgraceful - eyed Susan , I was thrilled to feel a baby plant right next to it . This incentive child was hidden behind the female parent - plant , but still link at the roots . I decided to leave this one in place , so I just cut through the root that was connecting it to the orotund rudbeckia .

Step 3: Divide the root clump.

At this tip , you ’re probably looking at a large ballock of tangled root and dirt . audit it from all side and see if the plant naturally divides somewhere nigh to the middle ( or in however many portion you want to divide it ) . If it does n’t , choose a touch where you would like to lop it .

I start by take away some of the dirt for make the ascendant bodily structure more seeable .

Then I used my regular secateurs to cut straight through the root . you’re able to also use larger pruning shear if you ’re reduce through a large ascendant structure . I divided the black - eyed Susan into roughly two equal part .

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In my case , neither of the two plant life will go back into the previous planting jam . So I filled that back up .

Some gardeners simply allow the plant in the primer coat after digging the deep and break up the roots in place using a shovel . I prefer to lift and divide using scissor hold because a clear cut is better for the root structure than a tattered air division .

Step 4: Transplant (or replant) your black-eyed Susan.

If you ’re keeping one of the new divisions in the same fix , check that you lay to rest it again at the same depth . Black - eyed Susans do n’t send out a taproot and they do n’t need to be buried too deeply .

A good horticulture rule of quarter round that wreak well for me is toput in what I take outwhen dividing and transplant plants .

That means that whatever soil or roots I ’ve taken out will be supervene upon by fresh compost . This helps keep the soil surface even ( without any dips and valleys ) . It also helps ensure the transplanting are off to a dependable start .

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So if there are gaps in the grunge after you ’ve look at out a full-grown thumping , always make full them back up with garden compost .

Where should I transplant my black-eyed Susan?

Always transplant your black - eyed Susan in full sun , in a spot that gets at least six to eight 60 minutes of sunlight in the centre of summer . Rudbeckia is also prostrate to powdery mould , so it ’s honest to imbed it in a spot that gets plenty of airflow .

You ’ll also need to keep it aside from prolonged overhead wet . This is the form that you get if you place your plant under the house eaves , leaky gutters or the drip mold line of a tree .

Finish any transplant sitting with a full dose of water . This will avail the roots bounce back after being disturbed and it will avail the soil fall .

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If you ’ve master the ( very loose ) art of dividing a contraband - eyed Susan , you ’re now well - equipped to part a horde of other perennial with the same beginning structure . Division is a really well-situated direction to get more plants for innocent .

Have a face at the other gentle method acting to get innocent garden plants : taking hardwood cut .

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